Delhi, India.
Delhi was really hard for us. It takes a tremendous effort to process the energy swirling in Delhi. There is so much to take in, in every sense - sight, smell, touch, taste, sound, and spirit.
One day we’ll never forget is the day we were guided by two young adults, Kajal and Purav, on a food tour of Old Delhi. Kajal and Purav each lived on the streets of Delhi as small children, there the Salaam Baalak Trust reaches out to kids living alone on the street.
One way new “graduates” of the Salaam Baalak Trust supports young people into adulthood with experience and a paycheck is by organizing tours. They brought us to places in Delhi we would never, ever have ventured on our own. Their insider knowledge and wise-beyond-their years groundedness made us feel safe. We trusted their leadership, they trusted us with their stories and their beloved city. Unforgettable.
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Breakfast, day one
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Peacock flies past us onto the roof
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Peacock on the roof
 
          
        
          
          
        
      What is that in the trees?
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      oh, god - they're bats!
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Outdoor fitness station
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Baboons in the park
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      We met THE cutest puppy
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      The downstairs grocery store
The BEST meal we had in Delhi, at Red Chilli
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Cozy place for schoolwork
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Views from our Airbnb
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Nearby temple
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Tuk tuk ride
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Uncafe, breakfast place
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Delhi metro map
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Festival outside the Red Fort
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      The Red Fort, which we couldn't figure out how to enter. Josh tried again the next day, successfully.
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      AMBULANCE: The Driver of this Taxi Respects Women
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Watching a Timberwolves game
 
          
        
          
          
        
      The Red Fort
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Red carrots
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      PB&Js...again
 
          
        
          
          
        
      School
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Cows in the alley near our Airbnb
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      School drop-off
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Taxi
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Namaste General Mills
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      On the Delhi subway
 
          
        
          
          
        
      On the metro
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Jama Masjid
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      L to R: Ari, Purav, Kajal, Josh, Leo, Katie
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Another style butter chicken, from Aslam Chicken, also DELICIOUS
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Shahi tukda, a dessert dating back to Mughal times
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Chicken and mutton kababs at the famous Qureshi
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Site of mass goat sale and butchery during Ramadan
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Jain temple in Old Delhi
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Paratha with all the delicious accompaniments
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Eating kulfi while waiting for our parantha
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Kulfi stand
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Kulfi maker
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Our first cycle tuk-tuk ride
 
          
        
          
          
        
      Crowded Delhi street
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Indian sweets
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      The spice market
 
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
       
          
        
          
          
        
      Baboons in Green Park
Making parathas
Delhi honking
Bats at breakfast
Bustling Delhi
Turkish ice cream tricks
Old Delhi
Outside our Airbnb
Festival dance
Kajal guides us through Old Delhi
Entry into the Red Fort
Tightroping outside Red Fort
 
                         
          
        
           
          
        
          